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Mljet

Mljet

IslandsCroatiaDubrovnik-Neretva,Croatia

The greenest island in the Croatian Adriatic, wrapped around two saltwater lakes that breathe with the tide, with a twelfth-century monastery on an inner islet.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Oct

The sweet spot: the sea still holds about 23°C in September and 20°C into October as the heat and crowds fade. The electric train stops around mid-September and services thin, but the park stays open and the warm swimming lingers into early autumn.


Year-round Mljet's two tidal saltwater lakes, its island monastery and its pine forest are here year-round. From June to September the sea is warm enough to swim off the rocks, and the water stays flat and still early in the day.

Mljet is the greenest island in the Adriatic, so thickly pined that Croatians say so outright. At its heart lie two saltwater lakes, with a twelfth-century Benedictine monastery standing on an islet in the larger one. An island on a lake on an island is the picture that has come to stand for Mljet. The lakes are Veliko and Malo Jezero, the Great and the Small, joined to each other and to the sea by narrow channels. A tidal current pours through them, reversing direction every six hours as the sea breathes in and out. They held fresh water until Roman times, when the Adriatic worked its way in through a crack in the limestone. In 1960 the whole western third of the island became Mljet National Park, the oldest marine protected area in the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed in the park, so the quiet is almost complete — the dip of an oar, wind moving through the pines, the odd blackbird. From the little harbours of Pomena and Polače you can walk or cycle the shaded path that rings the Great Lake, stopping to swim off warm slabs of rock where the water runs clear to the bottom. A shuttle boat crosses to the monastery islet, where you can drink coffee in a courtyard the Benedictine monks once ran as Croatia's first quarantine station. Mornings leave the lakes flat as glass; by afternoon a breeze lifts and small sailboats slip into the bays. Reaching Mljet still takes some effort — a ferry or fast catamaran from Dubrovnik, or the car ferry from the Pelješac peninsula — and that distance keeps it calmer than the islands closer to the mainland.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Arrive early or stay the night — the first shuttle boats and day-trippers reach the lakes mid-morning, so dawn on the shore path is when the water lies mirror-still and empty.
  • Swim the open bays, not the narrows — the channels between the lakes funnel a strong tidal current that runs fastest mid-tide and can be hard to swim against.
  • Aim for late spring or September — May and June bring warm water and resin-scented pines without the ferry crowds and hard heat of July and August.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Boat out to the monastery islet

    Boat out to the monastery islet

    A short shuttle ride carries you across the Great Lake to the islet of St Mary, where a twelfth-century Benedictine monastery stands among cypresses and olive trees. Walk the cloister, step into the Romanesque church, and look back at the stone walls doubled in the still water. Then take a table in the stone courtyard, where a café now occupies rooms Benedictine monks lived in for more than six centuries. The coffee is nothing special; you come for the place — a monastery courtyard on an islet in the middle of a saltwater lake.

  2. 2

    Kayak the saltwater lakes

    Kayak the saltwater lakes

    Push a kayak out onto Veliko Jezero and paddle the sheltered arms of the lake, where the water shifts from deep blue to pale green over the bright limestone floor. The two lakes are joined by a narrow channel where the tide runs hard and changes direction every six hours, so cross into Malo Jezero near slack water, when the current eases. Stay out as the sun drops: the forested ridges glow copper, the day boats leave, and the water falls completely still.

  3. 3

    Circle the Great Lake on foot or by bike

    Circle the Great Lake on foot or by bike

    A flat path rings Veliko Jezero, shaded almost the whole way by Aleppo pines that lean out over the water. Walk it in about two hours or rent a bike near the entrance, stopping to swim off the warm rocks wherever the trees open onto the shore.

  4. 4

    Swim into Odysseus's cave

    Swim into Odysseus's cave

    On the wild south coast, a collapsed sea cave opens at the waterline — the grotto where legend says Calypso held Odysseus. Reach it by boat or by a steep scramble down, then swim in on a calm day, when sunlight enters underwater and turns the whole cavern electric blue.

Watch

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