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Verdon Gorge

Verdon Gorge

CanyonsProvence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France
August·Peaking now

Jul–Aug

High summer runs everything — dam releases open the river for rafting and canoeing on set days, the lake mouth fills with pedal boats — but the sun-baked walls climb only in shade and parking at the put-in beaches is scarce.


Year-round The turquoise river and its limestone walls are here year-round; late spring through autumn is the season for canoeing, climbing and the clifftop drives.

The Verdon Gorge drops as much as 700 metres into a pale limestone plateau in Provence, and along its floor runs a river of such vivid turquoise-green that the French call this the Grand Canyon of Europe. The colour is no trick of the light: fine glacial rock flour and microscopic algae hang suspended in the current and scatter sunlight toward green and blue, glowing against the grey walls on either side. The Verdon River carved all of it over millions of years, cutting down through limestone that once lay on the bed of ancient seas and was later heaved upward with the Alps. For some 25 kilometres the canyon squeezes to as little as six metres across at the water and opens to a hundred at its widest, before spilling into the man-made turquoise of Lake Sainte-Croix at its western end. Verdon is a place to get into rather than just look at. You can paddle a canoe into the mouth of the gorge and drift beneath walls that climb straight out of the water, or take the clifftop Route des Crêtes, where the road hangs over the void and griffon vultures wheel below the guardrail. Walkers descend the Sentier Martel to the canyon floor by way of steel ladders and a dark tunnel, while climbers come for more than 1,500 bolted routes on rock so good that the Verdon became the birthplace of modern sport climbing. The Pont de l'Artuby, 182 metres above the riverbed, ranks among Europe's highest bungee-jumping bridges. Today the whole canyon lies within the Verdon Regional Natural Park, and its once-wild river is held downstream by the 1970s dam that drowned a village to fill Lake Sainte-Croix.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Late spring to September is the water season — canoes, kayaks and pedal boats are rented at Sainte-Croix only in the warm months, and the canyon-floor trails run open and dry.
  • Parts of the Route des Crêtes are one-way — follow the signposted direction out of La Palud-sur-Verdon so you never meet oncoming traffic on the narrow cliff edge.
  • Midsummer bakes and fills the lake mouth — come in June or September for cooler air, quieter water and easier parking at the popular put-in beaches.
  • Griffon vultures ride the thermals over the gorge — scan the sky and the high cliff ledges from the clifftop belvederes, where the big birds often soar close to eye level.
  • The Sentier Martel is a full day, not a stroll — its 15 kilometres include steel ladders and an unlit tunnel, so bring a headlamp, water and proper shoes.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Paddle a canoe or kayak through the gorge

    Paddle a canoe or kayak through the gorge

    Canoes and kayaks are hired by the hour from the beaches at the western end of the canyon, where the Verdon runs out into Lake Sainte-Croix. Paddling upstream carries you into the mouth of the gorge, where the limestone rises straight out of the turquoise water and the channel narrows to a few metres in the tightest spots. You come back the same way, and the rentals operate only in the warm months, roughly late spring to September.

  2. 2

    Drift into the gorge on a Sainte-Croix pedal boat

    Drift into the gorge on a Sainte-Croix pedal boat

    Rent a pedal boat or kayak from the beaches at the western end and glide into the very mouth of the canyon, where the walls close in and the water turns deep turquoise beneath you.

  3. 3

    Drive the clifftop Route des Crêtes

    Drive the clifftop Route des Crêtes

    Trace the one-way loop road along the southern rim, stopping at a string of belvederes where the canyon suddenly drops hundreds of metres beneath your feet and reveals a new angle at every turn.

  4. 4

    Descend to the floor on the Sentier Martel

    Descend to the floor on the Sentier Martel

    Follow the Verdon's most famous footpath down into the canyon, past sculpted pools and sheer walls, through steel ladders and a long unlit tunnel that make the 15-kilometre day feel like an expedition.

  5. 5

    Peer down from the Pont de l'Artuby

    Peer down from the Pont de l'Artuby

    Stand on the slender arch of the Artuby bridge and look 182 metres straight down to the riverbed — one of Europe's highest bungee-jumping platforms, whether or not you decide to leap.

  6. 6

    Rope up on the Verdon's great walls

    Tie in on the limestone that gave the world sport climbing, where hundreds of metres of bolted rock drop straight toward the river. Even watching from the rim, you can pick out climbers hanging like specks against the pale cliffs.

Watch

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