Attabad Lake is 21 kilometres of hard teal water lying on top of a buried highway, and it did not exist before 4 January 2010. That morning the slope above the village of Attabad tore loose — around 45 million cubic metres of rock — burying houses, killing twenty people and dropping a natural dam some 120 metres high across the Hunza River. The water rose behind it for five months. By the time it spilled over the debris that June it had drowned more than 19 kilometres of the Karakoram Highway. It swallowed the village of Ayeenabad and most of Shishkat, pushed about 6,000 people out of their homes and stranded 25,000 more upstream in Gojal.
What was left is a lake 2,380 metres up, more than a hundred metres deep when it filled and held between canyon walls with almost nothing green on them. At that height the air thins and the cold arrives the moment the sun leaves the gorge, even in July. Glaciers upstream grind rock into a fine powder that hangs in the meltwater and scatters the blue end of the light straight back at you, so the surface burns teal against grey stone. In September 2015 five Chinese-built tunnels — the Pakistan-China Friendship Tunnels — carried the highway back around the lake, and the disaster site became a shoreline of jetties, painted boats, jet skis and cliff-edge cafés. Out on the water the scale finally lands: bare walls rising straight from the teal, wind coming down the valley cold off the ice.