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Passu Cones

Passu Cones

PeaksPakistanGilgit-Baltistan,Pakistan

A limestone ridge above the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan, cut into bare spires so sun-struck that snow slides off them all winter.

September·Edge of season

Jun–Sep

Summer opens the high ground: the Passu Glacier walk, the three-day climb to the Patundas ridge and the trek up the Batura Glacier to the summer pastures all run, and the road is clear to Khunjerab. But the valley is green rather than gold, and meltwater turns the river opaque grey.



Year-round Tupopdan's bare grey-gold spires and the white Passu Glacier stand over the Karakoram Highway every month; the valley's colour, its snow, its open guesthouses and its trekking are what come and go.

The Passu Cones are a ridge of limestone above the Karakoram Highway in upper Hunza, in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, cut into a row of bare spires so steep and sun-struck that snow slides off them all winter, standing over the village of Passu and its stone-walled fields between two glaciers, the most photographed mountains in the country. The ridge is called Tupopdan, a name whose meaning is disputed, and it rises to 6,106 metres in a line of pinnacles that catch the first and last light, seen from the highway, from the fields and from the roof of every guesthouse in the village; the Passu glacier comes down to the road at the village's edge, and stepping off the tarmac and following the ground up brings the walker near its clean white snout in well under an hour, while the Batura glacier to the north, fed by Batura Sar at 7,795 metres, is one of the longest outside the poles. Hand-stacked walls divide the plots, lines of poplar mark the irrigation channels led down from the glaciers, and the whole patchwork sits directly under the cones, yellow and rust in the first three weeks of October and white with apricot blossom in late April. The Hussaini suspension bridge across the Hunza river a few kilometres south is the other picture, a footbridge of planks and cables that photographs travel the internet as proof of the world's most dangerous crossing, though the shredded ropes in those pictures belong to an older bridge beside it that nobody uses, and most of the people on the planks are villagers with somewhere to be on the other side. On a shelf above the village Borith lake is a small salt lake wedged between the Ghulkin and Passu glaciers, too saline for fish but a rest stop for ducks and geese on the Central Asian flyway, with a camp on its shore. Attabad lake and the tunnels are half an hour south. The Passu Cones are a fence of stone over a village, and the glaciers come down on either side.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The rock only turns gold at the ends of the day — catch the ridge in the first or last hour of light; midday sun flattens the row into one grey wall.
  • Upper Hunza turns a week or two after Karimabad — if the lower valley's poplars are already bare in late October, Passu can still be at its peak.
  • The Passu Glacier trail gives you both at once — an hour or two up from Borith Lake puts the white ice and the cones in the same frame.
  • The Hussaini bridge is sound, but it moves — steel cables and solid planks now, yet the gaps are wide and the deck bucks in the wind. Cross slowly, one at a time.
  • Passu is tiny and October fills it — a handful of houses take guests and the same three weeks draw everyone, so the bottleneck here is beds rather than the road.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cross the Hussaini suspension bridge

    Cross the Hussaini suspension bridge

    The bridge links Hussaini to Zarabad, and most of the people on it are villagers with somewhere to be on the other side. The planks are set far enough apart to watch the grey Hunza River sliding underneath, and from the middle the cones fill the valley upstream. Beside it hangs the older span the floods took, ropes frayed and boards missing — the bridge in all the 'world's most dangerous' photographs, and the one nobody uses.

  2. 2

    Camp on the shore of brackish Borith Lake

    Camp on the shore of brackish Borith Lake

    A small salt lake on a shelf above the village, wedged between the Ghulkin and Passu glaciers, too saline for fish but a rest stop for migrating ducks and geese. Tents go up on the grass at its edge, and the trail to the Passu Glacier viewpoint carries on from here.

  3. 3

    Walk up to the Passu Glacier's clean white snout

    Walk up to the Passu Glacier's clean white snout

    Where the Karakoram Highway enters the village, step off the tarmac and follow the ground up toward the glacier: well under an hour on foot brings you near the snout. Most of the ice in this valley lies buried under grey rubble, but this tongue stays clean white. Up close you stand at the edge of the very ice that ground out the trough you are walking through.

  4. 4

    Walk Passu's stone-walled fields beneath the spires

    Walk Passu's stone-walled fields beneath the spires

    Hand-stacked walls divide the plots, lines of poplar mark the irrigation channels led down from the glaciers, and the whole patchwork sits directly under the cones. Walk it late in the day for the scale of the place: farmland you could cross in twenty minutes, with a 6,000-metre wall standing over it. Cloud tears across the ridge through the afternoon, and the limestone burns gold in the last light.

Watch

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