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Retezat National Park

Retezat National Park

PeaksRomaniaHunedoara,Romania

More than eighty glacial lakes in a single granite range, one hanging above the next, in mountains that carry a third of Romania's plant species.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

Snow-free at last: the mountain lakes lie ice-free and mirror-still, and every hut and lake-to-lake traverse is running. The dwarf mountain rhododendron of the high meadows is known here as smirdar. By September the crowds thin and the high walking turns crisp and stable.



Year-round Retezat's eighty glacial lakes and granite peaks — the 'land of blue eyes' — are here year-round; the summer meadows bloom once the snow clears, and October storms close the ridges.

Retezat holds more than eighty glacial lakes in a single granite range, so many that Romanians call it the land of the blue eyes. They fill cirques scooped by Ice Age glaciers across the Southern Carpathians, one hanging above the next like a staircase of water. Bucura, at roughly nine hectares, is the largest glacial lake in Romania; Zănoaga is the deepest at twenty-nine metres. Above them peaks top 2,500 metres, with Peleaga the highest at 2,509. The range takes its name from the flat-topped Retezat Peak — retezat means cut off. More than a third of Romania's plant species grow here, some ninety of them found nowhere else on Earth. Wake on the shore of Lake Bucura and the first light turns the granite summits copper while the water lies dead still and doubles them. Trails thread from one lake to the next, cirque to cirque, over screes loud with the whistle of marmots. Chamois pick along the ridgelines at dawn, bears and wolves keep to the beech and spruce forests below, and much of the massif lies beyond any phone signal. Semi-wild horses graze the open pastures in summer and wander loose between the lakes. This is still one of Europe's genuine wildernesses. A strict core around the Gemenele reserve has been closed to ordinary visitors since the park was founded, and campfires are allowed at just one meadow, Poiana Pelegii. Come in summer, when the snow has finally left the high tarns and the meadows flush with gentians and dwarf rhododendron. By October the first storms close the ridges again.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Best from July to September — snow lingers at the higher lakes into late June, and the first autumn storms usually close the high traverses by early October.
  • Weather turns within the hour up here — carry a map, compass and layers, because cloud can swallow the ridges and the painted route-marks vanish in fog.
  • The Gemenele core reserve is off-limits — its strictly protected heart needs written permission from the Romanian Academy to enter, so plan your route to skirt it.
  • Camp only in marked areas and light fires only at Poiana Pelegii — store food well away from the tents, since this is bear and wolf country.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Hike to Lake Bucura

    Hike to Lake Bucura

    Follow the classic climb from Cârnic up to Bucura, the largest glacial lake in Romania, sitting in an open cirque at 2,040 metres. The shore is the natural base camp for the range, and by evening the granite peaks lay their reflection across the still water.

  2. 2

    Climb Peleaga, the highest peak

    Climb Peleaga, the highest peak

    Ascend Peleaga, at 2,509 metres the highest summit of the Retezat. From the top the granite crests roll away in every direction and the scattered blue lakes come into view all at once, cirque after cirque below your boots.

  3. 3

    Find a cascade in the forest belt

    Find a cascade in the forest belt

    Drop below the tree line into the forest belt, where meltwater streams gather into cascades among the old beech and spruce. It is a cooler, greener counterpoint to the bare granite above, and a good turnaround on a day when cloud has closed the high ridges.

  4. 4

    Watch the horses on the high pastures

    Watch the horses on the high pastures

    In summer, semi-wild horses are left to graze the open pastures around the massif, and you may meet them loose among the meadows and cirques. Give them room; they wander freely here, unbothered by the hikers passing between the lakes.

Watch

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