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Wadi Qelt

Wadi Qelt

CanyonsWest Bank, Palestine
August·Quiet month

Jun–Aug

Full desert summer: highs of 36–37°C and the bare rock past 40°C by afternoon, no shade the whole trail. Longer hikes are unwise — come only at dawn for the springs and the monastery, which still opens mornings; nothing else closes.



Year-round Three springs — Ein Fara, Ein Fawwar and Ein Qelt — run all year and the 2,000-year-old aqueduct carries their water along the cliff without a break; the monks open the monastery gate most mornings.

Wadi Qelt is a desert gorge where the footpath is an aqueduct: a stone channel first cut more than 2,000 years ago and still carrying spring water along the cliff wall. The wadi drops some 850 metres over roughly 25 kilometres, from the hills near Jerusalem down to Jericho. Three springs keep it alive — Ein Fara, Ein Fawwar and Ein Qelt — and Hasmonean and Herodian engineers piped their water to the royal winter palaces that stood where the valley opens onto the plain. The old Jerusalem-Jericho road, the road of the Good Samaritan, ran along the ridge just above. Halfway down, the Monastery of Saint George of Choziba is built into the rock face itself: blue domes, whitewashed cells and cypresses stacked on ledges above the drop. Hermits took to these cliffs in the 420s, and the monastery grew around them by about AD 500. The path narrows to the channel itself — cliff on one shoulder, a straight fall on the other, water running clear and shallow at your feet. The rock above is pocked with the cells of hermits who came here for silence, and silence is still most of what the canyon holds. In 614 Persian troops killed the monks of Choziba, and their bones are kept in a chapel by the gate; the place lay ruined for centuries until Greek Orthodox monks rebuilt it, finishing in 1901. A few monks live there now and open the gate each morning. Below the walls the streambed is dry stone most of the year. Tradition holds this to be the brook Cherith of the Elijah story. The gorge sits in the occupied West Bank, reached from Jericho; the eastern stretch of the trail is not reliably safe to walk alone, so ask locally first.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come in the first hours after sunrise — the gorge is still cool and half in shadow, and the monastery gate is open through the morning before shutting for the middle of the day.
  • Rain falling on the Jerusalem hills is enough to flood this canyon — a dry bed can fill under a perfectly clear sky here, so stay out of the wadi on stormy days.
  • Carry more water than feels sensible — there is no shade anywhere along the trail, and summer afternoons on the bare rock climb past 40°C.
  • The short way in is from Jericho, driving up to the cliff-top viewpoint and walking the last 20-30 steep minutes down to the gate; covered shoulders and knees are required to go inside.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Walk the aqueduct channel to the monastery

    Walk the aqueduct channel to the monastery

    The stone water channel cut along the cliff is also the path: a ledge barely wider than your shoulders, the gorge dropping away beside you, spring water running clear at your feet the whole way. It delivers you at the monastery gate, which is exactly how pilgrims and monks have arrived for centuries.

  2. 2

    Step inside Saint George of Choziba

    Step inside Saint George of Choziba

    Behind the blue domes are cool stone rooms built straight into a natural cave, still home to a small Greek Orthodox community. A chapel by the gate holds the bones of the monks the Persians killed here in 614 — the reason the place stood empty for centuries before it was rebuilt.

  3. 3

    Drop to the wadi floor below the monastery

    Drop to the wadi floor below the monastery

    Leave the channel and scramble down to the canyon bed, where the cliffs close in and the monastery hangs overhead. The bed itself is dry stone most of the year — the water is all up in the channel — and rock hyrax bask on the ledges while gazelle keep to the ridgelines above.

  4. 4

    Pick out the hermit cells in the cliff

    Pick out the hermit cells in the cliff

    Look up and the rock face is pitted with dark openings: the cells of hermits who moved into this canyon in the 420s, a century before the monastery existed. Some are simple caves, others are walled-up shelters wedged onto ledges you cannot see any way of reaching.

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